Mouth-watering kebabs, scented biryani, and airy, cloud-like desserts.
The metropolis in India's north of Lucknow has long been a dream destination for epicures, with inhabitants and visitors equally celebrating its superb cuisine.
A Global Honor
Recently, The United Nations Educational, Scientific and Cultural Organization recognised it as a City of Gastronomy within its Creative Cities Network – placing it on a select roster of international urban centers and kindling hopes that it will spotlight Lucknow's peerless food. With this designation, it enters a worldwide network of cities urban centers across more than 100 countries committed to promoting "artistic expression as a key factor of city development that is sustainable".
The accolade "demonstrates its profound gastronomic legacy and dynamic culinary scene," as noted by a spokesperson from UNESCO's Regional Office for South Asia.
Lucknow is only the second Indian city – after Hyderabad, which was picked in 2019 – to earn a spot in this prestigious list of seventy urban centers internationally.
A City Defined by Food
The honor for this venerable city is hardly a shock to its locals or avid food lovers. Many share the opinion that it is "better late than never".
With the UNESCO accolade, this beloved, bustling, and eclectic city – the capital of India's most populous state – is at last in the spotlight for what has consistently characterized its heart: an immense love for food.
"'The day's menu, how should it be prepared' is a continued conversation from waking up until night in many homes," states a local cultural expert. "And you are truly assessed by the excellence of food that is produced in your kitchen."
A Royal Culinary Legacy
The Nawabi City – as it's popularly called after its historic opulent Muslim rulers – is famed for its succulent kebabs and a unique take on biryani that were conceived, evolved, and raised to sublime levels in their royal kitchens.
These imperial kitchens were centers of food experimentation, blending Persian and local Indian styles to create what became known as the food of Awadh.
It was in this era that Lucknow's iconic kebabs were developed. The story goes that the galouti kebab was created to feed an ageing nawab who had no longer had his teeth. His cooks minced the meat with papaya, kesar, and a blend of spices and made it so fine that it needed no chewing.
But arguably the most significant contribution of the cooks of Awadh was the slow-cook Dum pukht technique, where food is cooked on a low, slow heat, with the container's cover securely closed with dough.
More Than Just Famous Dishes
Besides the obvious kebabs and biryani, the culinary masters also developed a repertoire of dishes that included kormas (creamy curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a decadent bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is not just about kebabs and biryani – the region is additionally a vegetarian's paradise.
The local Baniya community's cuisine not only highlights fresh harvests but also provides the city its meticulously prepared Indian desserts, sweets, and unique street food, like chaat – spicy fried snacks.
Hidden Gems and Legacy Eateries
Nearly on every corner, there are little shops and carts – hidden delights that are wildly loved by the locals.
In the central district of Hazratganj, large gatherings start assembling from early morning at a legendary tea stall to get a piping hot cup of milky masala chai, served in clay glasses, along with pillowy soft buns lathered with freshly churned white butter.
In the morning, one can visit a no-frills joint operating in the historic quarter of Aminabad. Almost 150 years after it was founded, the place is still much sought-after for its freshly fried kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Preserving Tradition for the Future
The city also boasts special seasonal delights, such as makkhan malai, a cloud-like dessert found in the winter. The method of making it is precise and complicated. The vendor whisks the milk and then sets it out at night, allowing the dew to give it its unique light consistency.
On cold mornings, street vendors are often seen in historic neighborhoods like Aminabad and Chowk. Many but say that their younger generation are unwilling to take up the skill.
A celebrity chef from Lucknow has noted that the city's rich food legacy puts it among the best of the Indian street food experience. The significant impact from the UNESCO recognition, however, will occur only if Lucknow can now create awareness about its under-the-radar eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow tells a story – shaped by family-run food businesses, from modest street carts to busy restaurants, and secret family recipes.
The global recognition, it is believed, will motivate more people around the world to explore these narratives and travel to the city to delight in the food wonders of Lucknow.
